Sarande: what to see, where to stay and how to get around
Modern Sarandë was built on top of Onchesmos, an ancient port, and pieces of it surface between the hotels. This walk starts at a 5th-century synagogue in the centre, follows the old walls, and climbs to the monastery that gave the town its name. It ends at an Ottoman castle over the bay at sunset. About three hours; the last two stops are best by car.
A short history of Sarande
In antiquity this was Onchesmos, a small port of the Chaonian tribe, and the name Sarandë comes from the Monastery of the Forty Saints, "Agioi Saranta", built on the hill in the 6th century. In the city centre the remains of a 5th- or 6th-century AD synagogue have been uncovered, later converted into a church, one of the oldest synagogues found in the Balkans. During the Italian occupation, from 1939 to 1944, the city was called Porto Edda, after Mussolini's daughter. A few kilometres to the south lies the ancient city of Butrint, declared a World Heritage Site in 1992. After the fall of communism in 1991 Sarandë was rapidly built up into the busy seaside town of southern Albania.
The ten best sights in Sarande
1ButrintA whole ancient city in a forest by a lagoon; give it half a day
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2Ancient Synagogue
Ruins and mosaics of a 5th-century synagogue right in the town centre
3Walls of OnchesmosStretches of the ancient town wall between modern blocks
4Archaeological MuseumA small museum near the promenade; twenty minutes
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5Monastery of the 40 Saints
Hilltop ruins that gave the town its name; drive up for the view
6Lëkurësi CastleOttoman fort over the bay; come at sunset, there is a restaurant inside
7St Nicholas Monastery, MesopotamA Byzantine church with carved stone animals, inland on the Gjirokastër road
8KsamilBeaches and turquoise water 15 km south; crowded in August
9Ksamil IslandsSmall islands off the beach; reach them by kayak or water taxi
10Mirror BeachWhite pebbles under a cliff, on the road to Ksamil; steep path down
Scan with your phone camera to open the map there
What is an audio walk?
Tours in Sarande →A guide in your headphones: open the walk on our site, walk from stop to stop, and at each one your phone tells its story. No guide, no group, and free. This is the first walk in Sarande:
Free walking tours in Sarande
The town under the town
Modern Sarandë was built on top of Onchesmos, an ancient port, and pieces of it surface between the hotels. This walk starts at a 5th-century synagogue in the centre, follows the old walls, and climbs to the monastery that gave the town its name. It ends at an Ottoman castle over the bay at sunset. About three hours; the last two stops are best by car.
- Ancient Synagogue · Under the town lay Onchesmos, and in its centre stood a synagogue of the 5th century, later turned into a church. Its mosaic floor shows a menorah, a shofar and an etrog, among the most important signs of Jewish life found in the Balkans.
- Walls of Onchesmos · Onchesmos was the harbour of the Chaonians, the people of this coast, and later of the Romans. Pieces of its late-Roman wall still run between the apartment blocks, ignored by most of the people walking past.
- Archaeological Museum · A small collection of finds from the town and its surroundings. Seeing it after the synagogue helps put the pieces of the buried city together.
- Fruit and vegetable market · The hills behind Sarandë are covered in olive and citrus groves. Buy fruit and a jar of local honey here for the beach.
- Monastery of the 40 Saints · The town's name comes from this monastery: Agioi Saranta, the Forty Saints, a 6th-century foundation dedicated to forty Roman soldiers martyred for their faith. It was badly damaged by bombing in the Second World War.
- Lëkurësi Castle · Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent had this fort built in 1537, while his fleet was besieging Corfu, to control the bay. On a clear evening Corfu is right there across the strait.
South to Butrint
The coast south of town is a line of coves leading to Butrint, one of the great ancient sites of the Mediterranean. Swim at a pebble beach, paddle to the islands of Ksamil, then walk the ruins in the afternoon shade of the forest. Bring a swimsuit and water. A full day, possible by local bus.
- Ksamil–Butrint bus stop · No car needed for this route: the local bus runs from here along the coast to Ksamil and on to the gate of Butrint. Take the first one in the morning to beat the heat.
- Mirror Beach · The name comes from the white pebbles and the still, clear water that reflects them. The path down from the road is steep; there is little shade.
- Ksamil · Ksamil is a young village on a strip of land between the sea and the Butrint lagoon. In summer its beaches fill with sunbeds, so come early or late.
- Ksamil Islands · The small islands lie a few hundred metres offshore and have no permanent inhabitants. Many people swim out; a kayak is safer.
- Butrint · Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians all built here, and in the Aeneid Virgil has Aeneas stop at Buthrotum on his way to Italy. The Greek theatre, the baptistery and the Venetian tower are all within an easy loop in the forest.
- Butrint National Park · The ruins stand on the edge of a wide lagoon joined to the sea by the narrow Vivari channel. The park protects its marshes, and lines of mussel farms sit in the water.
Inland to the City of Stone
An hour's drive inland changes everything: green valleys, cold springs and the stone town of Gjirokastër. On the way are a carved Byzantine church and the Blue Eye. The road climbs over a pass, so allow time. A full day by car, back on the coast for dinner.
- St Nicholas Monastery, Mesopotam · A 13th-century church with two naves side by side, a plan rarely seen in Byzantine building. Walk round the outside to find animals and monsters carved into the stone.
- Blue Eye · A karst spring so deep that divers have never reached its bottom, keeping a steady 10 degrees all year. It is the source of the Bistrica river, which runs out to the sea near Sarandë.
- Antigonea · Pyrrhus of Epirus founded this hilltop city around 295 BC and named it after his wife Antigone. The Romans destroyed it in 167 BC, and it was found again only in the 20th century.
- Old Bazaar, Gjirokastër · Gjirokastër is called the City of Stone, because its houses, lanes and roofs are all made of the same grey stone. The bazaar is the place for lunch: ask for qifqi, rice balls with mint, found almost nowhere else.
- Skënduli House · A tower house of the old families, still lived in and shown by a member of the family. Storerooms and a cistern below, guest rooms with carved ceilings above.
- Gjirokastër Castle · Ali Pasha enlarged the castle in the early 19th century; later it served as a prison. On the walls stands an American jet that landed in Albania in 1957 and was kept as a trophy.
Getting to Sarande and getting around
- Intercity bus stops · Buses to Tirana, Gjirokastër, Himarë and Greece leave from this street; check times locally
- Ksamil–Butrint bus stop · The local bus to Ksamil and Butrint stops here, roughly every hour
Cheap eats in Sarande
Sarandë eats from the sea and the lagoon. Mussels from the Butrint lagoon are cooked in wine or eaten raw with lemon, and the fish is often sold by weight. For a quick lunch, the streets above the promenade have byrek bakeries and souvlaki counters. Prices are higher than inland, but a wrap still costs a few hundred lek.
- Byrektore Turi · Byrek fresh from the tray, about 100-200 lek
- Fast Food Geri · Wraps on Mother Teresa Square, about 300-450 lek
- Fast Food Çuçi · Quick counter near the bus stops, about 300-450 lek
- Nasto's · Fast food on the main boulevard, about 300-500 lek
- Pastiçeri Byrektore Çako · Byrek and pastries by the sea road, about 100-250 lek
Museums in Sarande
- Ancient Synagogue · Open-air ruins with mosaics, in the centre
- Butrint · Theatre, baptistery and walls in a forest; half a day
- Archaeological Museum · Small; finds from Onchesmos
- Monastery of the 40 Saints · Ruins on the hill behind town
Nature and day trips near Sarande
- Butrint National Park · Lagoon, marsh and birds around the ruins
- Blue Eye · Deep spring in an oak wood; viewing platform only
- Mirror Beach · White pebbles and very clear water
Things to do in Sarande with kids
- Lëkurësi Castle · Walls to explore and the whole bay below
- Ksamil Islands · Kayak out to a small island
- Ksamil · Shallow beaches for small children
Where to eat in Sarande
- Limani · Seafood on the harbour front
- Mare Nostrum · Fish and pasta on the sea road east of the centre
- Haxhi · Seafood in town; try the Butrint mussels
- Taverna Lamce · Albanian taverna near the bus stops
Frequently asked questions about Sarande
What is there to see in Sarande?
The top sights in Sarande are Butrint, Ancient Synagogue and Walls of Onchesmos. The full list on this page has 10 sights, each with a photo and a short note.
How many days do you need in Sarande?
Three to four days are enough to see the best of Sarande without rushing, including at least one walking tour.
Is there a free walking tour in Sarande?
Yes. sleepntrip has 3 free audio walks in Sarande, with no guide and no group: your phone tells the story at every stop. The first one: The town under the town.
How do you get to Sarande and get around?
The main ways are Intercity bus stops and Ksamil–Butrint bus stop. Full details are in the transport section on this page.
Where to stay in Sarande, and for how much?
sleepntrip shows only rooms in Sarande that meet nine conditions: a good location, high guest scores, cleanliness, and a price of up to $80 a night for two. Pick your dates and see what is free.
Looking for a hotel in Sarande for your dates?
Only rooms that meet nine conditions, up to $80 a night.