Shahrisabz: what to see, where to stay and how to get around
Shahrisabz, called Kesh in Timur's time, is the town of his birth, and he meant it to outshine everything. His White Palace, Ak-Saray, was begun in 1380 and took about 24 years; only the stumps of its gate survive, and even they are among the tallest structures of their age in Central Asia. The historic centre is a UNESCO site, though heavy rebuilding around 2014 turned the old streets into a park. This walk runs north to south through it: about two hours on flat paths.
A short history of Shahrisabz
In antiquity the city was called Kesh, and it is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. In 1336 Timur was born nearby, and he remained attached to it even when he built his capital in Samarkand. In 1380 he began building the Ak-Saray Palace, the "White Palace", here; of its huge entrance gate only two gate pillars covered in blue tiles survive. The city also holds tombs of members of Timur's family. The name Shahrisabz means "green city". In 2000 the historic centre was declared a World Heritage Site.
The ten best sights in Shahrisabz
1Ak-Saray PalaceThe ruined gate of Timur's summer palace; stand under it to feel the size
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2Dorut Tilovat
A cluster of mosque and mausoleums at the south end of the old town
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3Kok Gumbaz Mosque
The blue dome of Ulugh Beg's Friday mosque
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4Dorus-Saodat
The complex of Timur's family, with the empty crypt meant for him
5Jahongir MausoleumTomb of Timur's eldest son, with a conical dome
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6Hazrati Imom Mosque
Working mosque beside Dorus-Saodat; painted wooden porch
7Chubin MadrasaNow the local history museum; short and worth it
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8Chorsu
The old domed trading hall at the old crossroads
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9Xo'ja Ilg'or
Timur's birthplace village, 20 minutes south-west
10Takhtakaracha PassThe mountain road to Samarkand; stop at the top for the view
Scan with your phone camera to open the map there
What is an audio walk?
Tours in Shahrisabz →A guide in your headphones: open the walk on our site, walk from stop to stop, and at each one your phone tells its story. No guide, no group, and free. This is the first walk in Shahrisabz:
Free walking tours in Shahrisabz
Ak-Saray and the old town
Shahrisabz, called Kesh in Timur's time, is the town of his birth, and he meant it to outshine everything. His White Palace, Ak-Saray, was begun in 1380 and took about 24 years; only the stumps of its gate survive, and even they are among the tallest structures of their age in Central Asia. The historic centre is a UNESCO site, though heavy rebuilding around 2014 turned the old streets into a park. This walk runs north to south through it: about two hours on flat paths.
- Ak-Saray Palace · The surviving pylons of the gate are about 38 metres high, and the arch between them, now fallen, spanned some 22 metres. Over the entrance Timur set the words: 'If you doubt our power, look at our buildings.'
- Chubin Madrasa · The madrasa now holds the town's history museum. Its collection covers Kesh from Sogdian times, when it was a city-state on the trade routes, to the Timurids, with pottery, coins and old embroidery.
- Chorsu · A chorsu was a domed market hall built where four streets met. This one dates from the 16th century, when the Shaybanids ruled from Bukhara, and it once held cloth and jewellery traders under its cool brick dome.
- Chorsu Bazaar · Shahrisabz embroidery is known across Uzbekistan, worked in fine silk stitches on caps, cushions and wall hangings. The bazaar is where women from the villages still bring their work to sell.
- Hazrati Imom Mosque · The mosque stands where the Timurid complex of Dorus-Saodat, 'seat of power', once spread over a large area. Its painted wooden porch, the aivan, is a much later addition, typical of the Bukhara-style mosques of the 19th century.
- Dorus-Saodat · Behind the mausoleum, archaeologists in the 20th century found a crypt with a single stone coffin, prepared for Timur himself. He died in 1405 in winter on campaign, the passes to Shahrisabz were snowed in, and he was buried in Samarkand instead; the crypt here stayed empty.
House of meditation
Dorut Tilovat, 'house of meditation', is the quieter half of Timurid Shahrisabz: a Friday mosque, a teacher's tomb and the dome of the descendants of the Prophet, grouped around one courtyard. A few minutes away is the tomb of Timur's favourite son. These are buildings of mourning and faith rather than power, and most are still used for prayer. About an hour and a half; dress modestly, and women should bring a scarf.
- Dorut Tilovat · Tradition says Timur's father, Amir Taragay, is buried in this complex, beside the teacher who shaped his son. That is why Timur gave such attention to a quarter that held no palace.
- Shamsuddin Kulol Mausoleum · Shamsuddin Kulol was a Sufi sheikh and the spiritual teacher of both Timur and his father. His mausoleum, built in 1373–74, is one of the oldest buildings in the town.
- Kok Gumbaz Mosque · Ulugh Beg built this Friday mosque in 1435 in memory of his father Shah Rukh, Timur's son. Its great blue dome, which gives the mosque its name, was the largest in the town and could be seen across the oasis.
- Gumbazi Sayidon · The 'dome of the sayyids' was built by Ulugh Beg in the late 1430s over the graves of sayyids, men honoured as descendants of the Prophet. Inside, the walls keep patches of original painted decoration.
- Jahongir Mausoleum · Jahangir, Timur's eldest son and heir, died in 1376 aged about 20, and his father built this tomb as the start of a family burial complex. Its ribbed, cone-shaped dome is unusual in Central Asia and recalls the tomb towers of Khorezm.
- Timur's Crypt · The crypt is reached by a narrow passage behind Hazrati Imom mosque. On the marble coffin are verses and Timur's name, carved for a burial that never happened.
Timur's green valley
Shahrisabz means 'green city', and the town sits in a fertile oasis under the Zarafshan and Hisor ranges. This drive leaves the monuments behind for the village where Timur was born, the twin town of Kitob on the 39th parallel, and the high pass that is the short way to Samarkand. The Hisor mountains to the east are a strict reserve and can only be entered with a permit. Allow most of a day; the pass road is narrow and winding, and can close in winter.
- Shahrisabz Market · The rivers coming down from the mountains make this one of the greenest valleys in southern Uzbekistan — hence the name. The market shows it in season: apricots in June, grapes and pomegranates in autumn.
- Xo'ja Ilg'or · Timur was born here on 9 April 1336, the son of a minor noble of the Barlas tribe. The village has a mosque and an old cemetery, and is a place of local pilgrimage.
- Yakkabog' · Yakkabog lies on the Yakkabogdarya, one of the rivers that run out of the Hisor range and water the whole oasis. In late spring it carries snowmelt and runs fast and cold.
- Hisor Nature Reserve · Created in 1983, it is the largest nature reserve in Uzbekistan, rising to peaks over 4,000 metres. Snow leopards, bears and the Central Asian ibex live in its upper valleys.
- Kitob · In 1930 an international latitude station was set up at Kitob, one of a handful around the world on the parallel 39°08′ north. Astronomers watched the same stars from each station to measure the tiny wobble of the Earth's axis.
- Takhtakaracha Pass · The pass crosses the Zarafshan range between the Kashkadarya and Samarkand valleys, and it is the shortest road between Timur's birthplace and his capital. In winter snow could close it, which is why Timur was buried in Samarkand.
Getting to Shahrisabz and getting around
- Kitob Station · The nearest railway station, in Kitob 4 km north; check the few trains a week
- Samarkand International Airport · About 90 minutes over the Takhtakaracha pass; the practical airport for Shahrisabz
Cheap eats in Shahrisabz
Shahrisabz eats like the rest of the Kashkadarya valley: plov for lunch, shashlik in the evening and round bread at every meal. It is a small town and most places are simple; prices are low and cash in som is the rule. In season, the fruit of the green valley — apricots, grapes, melons — is the best thing on offer.
- Farhod aka Osh · Plov at lunch, about 30,000-40,000 som
- Sardoba · Tea and snacks beside the monuments, around 20,000 som
- Chorsu Bazaar bread · A round non about 4,000-6,000 som, a bowl of fruit by weight
- Kesh · Uzbek dishes near Ak-Saray, a main around 35,000-50,000 som
- Ozod Kafe · Simple café by the bazaar, a plate about 25,000 som
Museums in Shahrisabz
- Chubin Madrasa · Local history museum; 30-45 minutes
- Kok Gumbaz Mosque · Friday mosque of Ulugh Beg; outside prayer times
- Timur's Crypt · Ask at Hazrati Imom mosque to be shown the way
- Jahongir Mausoleum · The conical dome; five minutes
Nature and day trips near Shahrisabz
- Takhtakaracha Pass · Stop at the top: the valley on one side, Samarkand's on the other
- Hisor Nature Reserve · Permit and local guide needed; the foothills are open
- Miroqi · Mountain village 40 minutes east; cooler in summer
- Yakkabog' · Riverside town in the south of the oasis
Things to do in Shahrisabz with kids
- Ak-Saray Palace · Children run in the park around the giant gate
- Chorsu Bazaar · Let children choose fruit and dried apricots
Where to eat in Shahrisabz
- Sezam · Uzbek dinner near the old town
- Temurxon Restoran · Large restaurant with grills
- Kishmish · Family restaurant; the name means "raisin"
- Maysa · Simple dinner by the bazaar
- Shahrizabz · Central restaurant on Sangohir Street
Frequently asked questions about Shahrisabz
What is there to see in Shahrisabz?
The top sights in Shahrisabz are Ak-Saray Palace, Dorut Tilovat and Kok Gumbaz Mosque. The full list on this page has 10 sights, each with a photo and a short note.
How many days do you need in Shahrisabz?
Three to four days are enough to see the best of Shahrisabz without rushing, including at least one walking tour.
Is there a free walking tour in Shahrisabz?
Yes. sleepntrip has 3 free audio walks in Shahrisabz, with no guide and no group: your phone tells the story at every stop. The first one: Ak-Saray and the old town.
How do you get to Shahrisabz and get around?
The main ways are Kitob Station and Samarkand International Airport. Full details are in the transport section on this page.
Where to stay in Shahrisabz, and for how much?
sleepntrip shows only rooms in Shahrisabz that meet nine conditions: a good location, high guest scores, cleanliness, and a price of up to $80 a night for two. Pick your dates and see what is free.
Looking for a hotel in Shahrisabz for your dates?
Only rooms that meet nine conditions, up to $80 a night.