Negombo: what to see, where to stay and how to get around
Negombo lived from the sea and the lagoon long before the airport, and the Portuguese and then the Dutch fought over it for its cinnamon. This walk starts at dawn at the fish market, passes what remains of the fort and crosses to the drying beaches. About two and a half hours, flat and hot; start before 7 and finish with breakfast. The market is busiest early and almost empty by noon.
A short history of Negombo
Negombo, on the west coast of Sri Lanka near Colombo's airport, was a port for the cinnamon trade even before the Europeans arrived. In the 16th century the Portuguese settled there, built a fort and spread Catholicism among the fishermen, and to this day most of the residents are Catholic, and the town is called 'Little Rome'. In 1644 the Dutch captured the town and dug canals linking it to Colombo. In 1796 it passed to the British. On 21 April 2019, Easter Sunday, many dozens of worshippers were killed in a suicide bombing at St Sebastian's Church in the town.
The ten best sights in Negombo
1Dutch Fort GateWhat is left of the Dutch fort on the lagoon mouth; the grounds behind are still a prison, so photos only from outside
2St. Mary's ChurchThe big church on Grand Street; go inside for the painted ceilings
3St. Sebastian's ChurchTall Gothic-style church north of the centre; modest dress, as in all churches here
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4Duwa Church
On the peninsula across the lagoon bridge; famous for its Easter passion play
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5Angurukaramulla Temple
Buddhist temple entered through a dragon's mouth, with a large seated Buddha; shoes off
6Kelaniya Raja Maha ViharaOne of the island's holiest temples, on the way to Colombo; white clothes are best
7Basilica of Our Lady of LankaNational basilica at Tewatta, 40 minutes south
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8Negombo Beach Park
The town beach with lawns and food stalls; the sea can be rough, so swim only where others do
9Lewis PlaceThe beach road of hotels and seafood places, quieter than the name sounds
10Hamilton CanalColonial canal running south to Colombo; boat trips go out from Negombo
Scan with your phone camera to open the map there
What is an audio walk?
Tours in Negombo →A guide in your headphones: open the walk on our site, walk from stop to stop, and at each one your phone tells its story. No guide, no group, and free. This is the first walk in Negombo:
Free walking tours in Negombo
Fishermen's town
Negombo lived from the sea and the lagoon long before the airport, and the Portuguese and then the Dutch fought over it for its cinnamon. This walk starts at dawn at the fish market, passes what remains of the fort and crosses to the drying beaches. About two and a half hours, flat and hot; start before 7 and finish with breakfast. The market is busiest early and almost empty by noon.
- Negombo Fish Market · The fish is auctioned on the ground as the boats come in through the lagoon mouth, and buyers bid loudly over the catch before it goes off to Colombo's restaurants.
- Dutch Fort Gate · The Dutch took Negombo from the Portuguese in 1640, lost it, and took it back in 1644, then rebuilt the fort to guard the cinnamon trade. The gate survives, and the ground behind it has been a prison since British times.
- Dried Fish Beach · Fish that is not sold fresh is gutted, salted and dried in the sun for a few days. Dried fish, karawala, keeps without a fridge and is a staple in rice-and-curry all over the island.
- Duwa Church · At Easter the people of Duwa stage a passion play, with life-size statues moved on strings beside the actors, and crowds come from all over the island to watch.
- Dudley Senanayake Central Market · The market is named after Dudley Senanayake, son of the first prime minister, who was himself prime minister three times.
- Lewis Place · North of the centre the fishermen still pull their oruva, outrigger canoes, onto the sand among the hotels, and on calm mornings their sails go out together.
Little Rome
Negombo is so Catholic that Sri Lankans call it Little Rome; the fishing families were converted by the Portuguese in the 16th century and stayed with the church. But the Buddhist island is never far, and the road inland leads to one of its holiest temples. Half a day by tuk-tuk or car; the last two stops are on the way to Colombo. Cover shoulders and knees everywhere, and take shoes off at temples.
- St. Sebastian's Church · Most of Negombo's fishermen belong to the Karava community, converted by the Portuguese in the 1500s; their churches are why the town has more spires than any other on the coast.
- St. Mary's Church · Building began in 1874 and took almost fifty years. The ceiling was painted by the local artist N. S. Godamanne with scenes from the life of Christ.
- Angurukaramulla Temple · In a town of churches this Buddhist temple makes a statement: visitors walk in through the open jaws of a painted dragon, and a seated Buddha about six metres high waits inside.
- Henarathgoda Botanical Garden · In 1876 rubber seedlings smuggled out of Brazil and raised at Kew were planted here; they were the first rubber trees in Asia, and the start of the plantations of Malaysia and Indonesia.
- Basilica of Our Lady of Lanka · In 1940, with Japanese invasion feared, Archbishop Jean-Marie Masson vowed to build a church to Mary if the island was spared. Colombo was bombed in 1942 but never invaded, and this basilica is the fulfilled vow.
- Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara · Tradition holds that the Buddha himself came here on his third visit to the island. Every January the Duruthu procession of elephants and dancers marks that visit.
Canal and marsh
Between Negombo and Colombo lies a strip of water and wetland that most travellers only see from the airport road. A colonial canal runs through it, a marsh full of birds lies behind it, and a narrow fishing village sits on the sand between canal and sea. Half a day by car, with a boat trip in the middle; take insect repellent. The zoo at the end works well for a last day before an evening flight.
- Bandaranaike International Airport · The airport began as RAF Negombo, a British air base of the Second World War, and opened to civil flights after independence. It is named after S. W. R. D. Bandaranaike, the prime minister assassinated in 1959.
- Hamilton Canal · The Dutch first linked the lagoon to Colombo by water; in the early 1800s the British agent Gavin Hamilton had a new cut dug alongside, and it still carries his name.
- Pamunugama · The village stands on the thin sandbar between the canal and the sea, so its houses have water on both sides and its boats can use either.
- Muthurajawela Visitor Centre · Muthurajawela is the largest coastal wetland in Sri Lanka, and its name is usually translated as 'marsh of the royal treasure'. Boats from the centre go out through the mangroves for birds and monitor lizards.
- Basilica of Our Lady of Lanka · Built after the war on the vow of 1940, it is now the national shrine of Sri Lanka's Catholics.
- National Zoological Gardens · The zoo grew out of the animal yard of John Hagenbeck, a German dealer who shipped Ceylon's animals to Europe; the government took it over and opened it as a zoo in 1936.
Getting to Negombo and getting around
- Bandaranaike International Airport · The country's main airport is about 20 minutes away, which is why so many trips start or end with a night here
- Negombo Railway Station · On the coast line to Colombo Fort, about an hour; cheap, but packed at rush hour
- Negombo Bus Terminal · Buses to Colombo and the airport all day; a tuk-tuk is easier with luggage
Cheap eats in Negombo
Negombo eats from the lagoon: prawns, crab and the small fish that end up in a sour curry. For lunch the local way is rice and curry, a plate of rice with three or four vegetable curries and fish, served in small eateries that call themselves 'hotels'. Bakeries sell short eats, fried patties and buns filled with fish or egg, for a few coins each. Ask for 'not spicy' and it will still be spicy.
- Perera Bakers · Local bakery for short eats and buns, about Rs 100-250 each
- Raheemiya Hotel & Bakery · Muslim eatery near the bus terminal; kottu or rice and curry about Rs 700-1,400
- Calton Bakery · Bakery by the bus terminal for buns and tea, about Rs 100-300
- Gayan Hotel · Small local eatery for rice and curry, about Rs 600-1,000
- The Century Café · Café on Main Street for tea and a snack, about Rs 300-900
- Little Hut · Simple restaurant near the station, a meal about Rs 800-1,500
Museums in Negombo
- St. Mary's Church · Painted ceilings and a huge nave; open most of the day
- Dutch Fort Gate · Five minutes from the fish market; outside only
- Duwa Church · The passion play church across the lagoon bridge
- Angurukaramulla Temple · Dragon entrance, murals and a big Buddha; shoes off
- Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara · Holy temple with fine murals; on the way to Colombo
Nature and day trips near Negombo
- Muthurajawela Visitor Centre · Boat into the marsh; early morning for birds
- Hamilton Canal · Flat water and palms; boat trips leave from Negombo
- Henarathgoda Botanical Garden · Shady garden with Asia's first rubber trees
- Pamunugama · Sandbar village between canal and sea; quiet beach
- Negombo Beach Park · Sunset over the sea; the town comes out in the evening
Things to do in Negombo with kids
- Negombo Fish Market · Sharks, rays and tuna on the floor at dawn; wear closed shoes
- National Zoological Gardens · Elephants, big cats and an aquarium; go in the morning
- Dried Fish Beach · Rows of fish drying on mats; short visit, strong smell
- Negombo Beach Park · Play area, kites and corn sellers in the evening
- Rukmani Devi Park · Small town park near the bus terminal for a break
Where to eat in Negombo
- Mr. Crab · Lagoon crab in curry or chilli sauce, a crab about Rs 3,000-6,000 by weight
- Sealook Restaurant · Seafood on the beach road, mains about Rs 2,000-4,000
- Ocean Floor · Grilled fish and prawns near the sand, about Rs 2,500-4,500
- The Port Restaurant & Beach Bar · Beach bar for a sunset drink and a fish dinner
- Edwin · Simple place on Lewis Place for curry and seafood
- Mom's Rustic Kitchen · Home-style Sri Lankan dinner, about Rs 1,500-3,000
Frequently asked questions about Negombo
What is there to see in Negombo?
The top sights in Negombo are Dutch Fort Gate, St. Mary's Church and St. Sebastian's Church. The full list on this page has 10 sights, each with a photo and a short note.
How many days do you need in Negombo?
Three to four days are enough to see the best of Negombo without rushing, including at least one walking tour.
Is there a free walking tour in Negombo?
Yes. sleepntrip has 3 free audio walks in Negombo, with no guide and no group: your phone tells the story at every stop. The first one: Fishermen's town.
How do you get to Negombo and get around?
The main ways are Bandaranaike International Airport, Negombo Railway Station and Negombo Bus Terminal. Full details are in the transport section on this page.
Where to stay in Negombo, and for how much?
sleepntrip shows only rooms in Negombo that meet nine conditions: a good location, high guest scores, cleanliness, and a price of up to $80 a night for two. Pick your dates and see what is free.
Looking for a hotel in Negombo for your dates?
Only rooms that meet nine conditions, up to $80 a night.