Kissamos: what to see, where to stay and how to get around

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The Gramvousa peninsula, north of Kissamos, ends in Balos, a shallow lagoon of white sand and turquoise water that is one of the most photographed places in Greece. Off its tip rises an island crowned by a Venetian fortress that later became a pirates' base. The easiest way is the day boat from Kissamos port, which stops at both. Allow a full day, with sun cream and water.

A short history of Kissamos

In antiquity this was Kissamos, the seaport of the mountain city of Polyrrhenia, and in the Roman period it grew so rich that large mosaic floors have been uncovered in its houses. The Venetians called it Kastelli, after the fortress they built, and their governor's building now serves as an archaeological museum. The town is small and quiet, and boats leave its harbour for the island of Gramvousa, with the Venetian fortress on its summit, and for the Balos lagoon.

The ten best sights in Kissamos

1
Archaeological Museum of Kissamos
Roman mosaics in the Venetian governor's house on the square
2
Polyrrinia
Hilltop ruins of an ancient city 7 km inland; a 20-minute climb for a huge view
3
Kissamos square
The small centre of town, with cafés and the museum
4
Telonio beach
The town beach, a short walk from the square
5
Mavros Molos
Quieter beach west of town
6
Balos lagoon
The famous lagoon: by boat from the port, or a dirt road and a 30-minute walk
7
Gramvousa fortress
Venetian fort on an island, a steep climb from the boat stop
8
Falasarna
A long sandy beach on the west coast; famous sunsets
9
Elafonisi
Pink-tinged sand and shallow lagoon, 75 minutes south; go early
10
Chrysoskalitissa Monastery
A white convent on a rock over the sea, on the way to Elafonisi

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What is an audio walk?

Tours in Kissamos →

A guide in your headphones: open the walk on our site, walk from stop to stop, and at each one your phone tells its story. No guide, no group, and free. This is the first walk in Kissamos:

Free walking tours in Kissamos

Balos and the pirate fortress

Archaeological Museum of Kissamos · Kissamos stands on the ancient city of Kisamos, the port of Polyrrinia, which grew rich under Rome. The museum, in the Venetian governor's house, shows the floor mosaics of its Roman villas.
Kissamos port (Kavonisi) · The port lies 3 km west of town, and besides the Balos boats it has ferries to the island of Kythira and to Gythio in the Peloponnese, a reminder that Kissamos faces mainland Greece.
Gramvousa fortress · The Venetians built the fort in 1579–1584, and it held out for Venice until 1692, more than twenty years after the rest of Crete had fallen. During the Greek revolution of the 1820s it became a base for Cretan rebels and pirates.
Balos lagoon · The lagoon is only knee-deep in most places, and its sand looks pinkish where crushed shells mix in. It is a protected Natura 2000 area, so don't take sand or shells away.
Balos car park · Those who drive come along a 10 km dirt road on the peninsula, which ends at this car park above the lagoon. From here a path drops about 30 minutes to the sand; the climb back is hot and steep.
Kaliviani · Kaliviani is the last village before the dirt road to Balos, and its tavernas look over the Gulf of Kissamos. It is a good place for lunch on the way back.

A city lifted from the sea

Western Crete rose out of the sea in a great earthquake in the year 365, by as much as 6–9 metres in places. You can see it at Falasarna, where an ancient harbour now lies high and dry behind the beach. This route crosses the hills to the west coast and back by an ancient hill city. About half a day, ending at Falasarna for the sunset.

Polyrrinia · Polyrrinia was a Dorian city on a steep hill, and its name is usually read as 'many lambs'. Remains of a Roman aqueduct cut in the rock, from the time of the emperor Hadrian, can be seen near the village below.
Kissamos square · The square is named after Eleftherios Venizelos, and the Venetian building on it, once the governor's house, now holds the museum. Kissamos is still a farming town more than a resort.
Telonio beach · Telonio means 'customs house', after the old customs building that stood by the shore when Kissamos was a working port. It is the closest beach to the centre.
Mavros Molos · Mavros Molos means 'black jetty', after the dark rocks at the water's edge. The beach is quieter than the town front, with a couple of tavernas.
Sfinari · Sfinari lies where a green valley meets the sea on the steep west coast, with tavernas under trees above a long pebble beach. It is far from the tour buses.
Falasarna · Ancient Falasarna was a Hellenistic port with a closed harbour basin, and after the uplift of 365 its quays were left about 6 m above sea level, some 100 m from the shore. Today the beach in front is one of the longest in Crete.

South to Elafonisi

South of Kissamos a road winds through chestnut villages and a gorge to Elafonisi, an islet joined to Crete by a shallow sandbar, famous for its pink-tinged sand. On the way are a cave chapel and a white convent on a rock above the sea. The drive takes about 75 minutes each way, so start early to beat the crowds. Return by Kolymbari's monastery if there is time.

Topolia Gorge · The road squeezes through the gorge and a short tunnel cut in the rock. The gorge walls hold the nests of birds of prey, and the path along the bottom can be walked in summer.
Agia Sofia cave · About 100 steps lead up from the road to the cave, which holds a small chapel among the stalagmites. Excavations found pottery showing the cave was used from Neolithic times.
Chrysoskalitissa Monastery · The name means 'of the golden step': legend says one of the 98 steps up to the convent is made of gold, visible only to those without sin.
Elafonisi · The pink colour of the sand comes from the crushed shells of tiny sea creatures called foraminifera. In 1824 Cretan women and children sheltering on the islet were killed by Ottoman-Egyptian troops, and a memorial stands on its high point.
Deliana Gorge · The Deliana gorge is short and gentle, with plane trees and small waterfalls in spring. It lies in the olive hills between the Kissamos valley and the Rodopou peninsula.
Gonia Monastery · The monastery was founded in 1618 on the shore at Kolymbari, and a Turkish cannonball from 1866 is still lodged in its wall. Beside it stands the Orthodox Academy of Crete, a conference centre of the Church.

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Getting to Kissamos and getting around

Kissamos bus station · Regular buses to Chania; summer buses to Falasarna and Elafonisi
Kissamos port (Kavonisi) · Day boats to Balos and Gramvousa, and ferries to Kythira and the Peloponnese
Chania Airport · About an hour east on the highway

Cheap eats in Kissamos

Kissamos is the market town of a farming valley, so food here is local and cheap: souvlaki, Cretan salads with rusks, olive oil from the hills and fish from the gulf. Quick meals come from a few grill houses and bakeries in the centre. Prices are in euros, lower than in Chania.

Ya Souvlaki · Souvlaki and gyros pita, about €3.50-5
Pikantiko · Grill house on the main street, about €3.50-7
O Chairetis bakery · Bread, pies and rusks for the beach, about €1-4
Kantina · Simple snack stand, about €3-5
Coffee Break Kissamos · Freddo coffee and a snack, about €2.50-5

Museums in Kissamos

Archaeological Museum of Kissamos · Roman mosaics of the ancient town
Polyrrinia · Acropolis with a view over two gulfs
Gramvousa fortress · Venetian fortress on an island
Gonia Monastery museum · Icons from the 15th to 19th century

Nature and day trips near Kissamos

Balos lagoon · Shallow lagoon of white sand
Elafonisi · Pink sand and warm shallows
Falasarna · Long sandy beach facing the sunset
Topolia Gorge · Gorge, tunnel and a cave
Deliana Gorge · Easy shaded gorge walk

Things to do in Kissamos with kids

Balos boat trip · A big boat, a castle island and a lagoon
Elafonisi · Wade across to the islet
Agia Sofia cave · Stairs up to a cave with a chapel
Telonio beach · Beach in town with calm water

Where to eat in Kissamos

Kokkinomageiremata · Home-style stews in tomato sauce
Fish Tavern 1960 · Fish by the sea
Taverna Korakas · Seafront taverna on the beach road
Iroon 42 · Cretan dishes in the centre
Stelios & Katina · Family taverna by the beach

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Frequently asked questions about Kissamos

What is there to see in Kissamos?

The top sights in Kissamos are Archaeological Museum of Kissamos, Polyrrinia and Kissamos square. The full list on this page has 10 sights, each with a photo and a short note.

How many days do you need in Kissamos?

Three to four days are enough to see the best of Kissamos without rushing, including at least one walking tour.

Is there a free walking tour in Kissamos?

Yes. sleepntrip has 3 free audio walks in Kissamos, with no guide and no group: your phone tells the story at every stop. The first one: Balos and the pirate fortress.

How do you get to Kissamos and get around?

The main ways are Kissamos bus station, Kissamos port (Kavonisi) and Chania Airport. Full details are in the transport section on this page.

Where to stay in Kissamos, and for how much?

sleepntrip shows only rooms in Kissamos that meet nine conditions: a good location, high guest scores, cleanliness, and a price of up to $80 a night for two. Pick your dates and see what is free.

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