Glasgow: what to see, where to stay and how to get around

Charles Rennie Mackintosh was born in Glasgow in 1868 and left his mark on the city in buildings, chairs, lamps and tea rooms. Around 1900 he and his wife, the artist Margaret Macdonald, created a style of tall lines, roses and dark wood that people now simply call the Glasgow Style. This walk goes from the centre up to the West End, from his first public building to the rooms of his own home. Half a day; the last stops are a subway ride or a long walk west.

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A short history of Glasgow

According to tradition Glasgow was founded in the 6th century by the monk Mungo, and the cathedral built over his tomb in the 12th century is one of the few in Scotland to have survived the Reformation intact. A university was founded here in 1451. In the 18th century the "Tobacco Lords" grew rich from trade with the American colonies, and in 1765 James Watt, who worked at the university, conceived the improvement that made the steam engine practical. In the 19th century a large share of the world's ships were built on the River Clyde. Thousands of Jewish immigrants settled in the Gorbals, and the Garnethill Synagogue of 1879 is the oldest in Scotland. After industry declined, Glasgow was European Capital of Culture in 1990.

The ten best sights in Glasgow

1. 
   1

   Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

   Free entry; stay for the organ recital most days at 1 pm

2. 
   2

   Glasgow Cathedral

   Go down to the crypt, the most beautiful part

3. 
   3

   Glasgow Necropolis

   Climb the hill behind the cathedral for the best view of the city

4. 
   4

   Provand's Lordship

   The city's oldest house, opposite the cathedral; free and quick

5. 
   5

   Riverside Museum

   Trams, trains and a rebuilt old street; the tall ship is moored outside

6. 
   6

   Burrell Collection

   A shipowner's huge private collection in a park, reopened after renovation

7. 
   7

   Hunterian Museum

   Inside the university's Gothic main building; free

8. 
   8

   Glasgow School of Art

   Mackintosh's masterpiece is still under restoration after the fires — see it from Renfrew Street

9. 
   9

   Mackintosh at the Willow

   Tea in the original Mackintosh tea room; book a table at weekends

10. 
    10

    The Lighthouse

    Climb the tower stairs for a rooftop view over the centre

11. 
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A guide in your headphones: open the walk on our site, walk from stop to stop, and at each one your phone tells its story. No guide, no group, and free. This is the first walk in Glasgow:

Free walking tours in Glasgow

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Getting to Glasgow and getting around

• Glasgow Central · Trains south to England and the Clyde coast; the grand hall is worth a look
• Glasgow Queen Street · Trains to Edinburgh and the Highlands — the West Highland Line starts here
• Buchanan Bus Station · Coaches all over Scotland and the airport bus

Cheap eats in Glasgow

Glasgow eats big and cheap: a fish supper from the chippy, a roll with square sausage, a curry that the city claims as its own. Italian families who arrived a century ago opened the cafés and ice-cream parlours, and the tea-room habit goes back to Mackintosh's day. A lunch in the centre is easy to find for under ten pounds.

• The University Cafe · Fry-ups, fish and chips and homemade ice cream, about £6-14
• Mackintosh at the Willow · Tea and scones in the restored tea room, about £8-20
• Blue Lagoon · Glasgow's own fish-and-chips chain, a fish supper about £9-12
• Piece · Big sandwiches near George Square, about £6-10
• Singl-end · Brunch and huge cakes in the Merchant City, about £8-15
• Chaiiwala · Masala chai and Indian street snacks, about £4-10

Museums in Glasgow

• Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum · Dalí, a Spitfire and a stuffed elephant under one roof; free
• Riverside Museum · Transport museum with a walk-in old street; free
• Burrell Collection · Chinese ceramics, tapestries and Degas in Pollok Park; free
• Hunterian Museum · Scotland's oldest public museum, inside the university
• The Tenement House · A flat frozen in the early 1900s, gas lamps and all

Nature and day trips near Glasgow

• Kibble Palace · The great glasshouse of the Botanic Gardens; free
• Pollok Country Park · Woods, a river and a herd of Highland cattle
• Kelvingrove Park · Riverside paths between the museum and the university
• Glasgow Green · The city's oldest park, on the river
• Loch Lomond Shores · Boat trips and lakeside walks at Balloch

Things to do in Glasgow with kids

• Buchanan Street Subway · A ride on the little orange subway loop
• Falkirk Wheel · Take the boat ride up the wheel
• Glasgow Science Centre · Hands-on science and a planetarium
• Riverside Museum · Climb aboard old trams and a tall ship
• The Kelpies · Huge horse heads to walk around, and a play park

Where to eat in Glasgow

• Shish Mahal · The curry house of the tikka masala story; cheerful and busy
• Ubiquitous Chip · Scottish produce in a covered courtyard off Ashton Lane
• Mother India · Glasgow's favourite Indian restaurant; book ahead
• Mother India's Cafe · Indian dishes as small plates to share, opposite Kelvingrove
• Cafe Gandolfi · Scottish classics like Cullen skink in the Merchant City

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