Alaverdi: what to see, where to stay and how to get around

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Two monasteries face each other across the Debed canyon, both founded in the 10th century by the same royal family and rivals ever since. Together they are a UNESCO site, and they are the reason travellers stop in a copper-mining town. The walk starts at Sanahin, right above Alaverdi, and the car takes you across to Haghpat and its fortress. Half a day; the monasteries are open from morning to dusk, and covered shoulders are expected.

A short history of Alaverdi

Alaverdi is a copper-mining town in the canyon of the Debed River in northern Armenia. In 1770 the local rulers brought Greek miners to work the mines, and at the end of the 19th century a French company built the smelter whose smoke still hangs over the town. On the plateau above it stand two 10th-century monasteries, Sanahin and Haghpat, which were declared a World Heritage Site in 1996. The Mikoyan brothers were born in the village of Sanahin: Anastas, one of the leaders of the Soviet government, and Artem, one of the designers of the MiG aircraft.

The ten best sights in Alaverdi

1
Sanahin Monastery
On the plateau right above town, a UNESCO site; the library hall dates from 1063
2
Haghpat Monastery
Twenty minutes by car; the twin of Sanahin across the gorge, quieter in the late afternoon
3
Mikoyan Brothers Museum
A MiG fighter stands in the yard; a short walk down from Sanahin monastery
4
Sanahin Bridge
The stone bridge of 1192 over the Debed, in town by the main road; free and always open
5
Odzun Church
A big early-medieval basilica on the plateau opposite town, with views down into the canyon
6
Kayan Fortress
Ruined walls on a spur a few minutes from Haghpat; good light at sunset
7
Horomayr Monastery
Ruins on the very edge of the canyon below Odzun; the path is rough, wear proper shoes
8
Kobayr Monastery
Frescoed ruins on a ledge above the gorge, a steep 20-minute climb from the road
9
Akhtala Monastery
Inside an old fortress, about 20 minutes north; the wall paintings are the best preserved in the region
10
Tumanyan House-Museum
The poet’s childhood home in Dsegh village, about half an hour south-west

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What is an audio walk?

Tours in Alaverdi →

A guide in your headphones: open the walk on our site, walk from stop to stop, and at each one your phone tells its story. No guide, no group, and free. This is the first walk in Alaverdi:

Free walking tours in Alaverdi

Sanahin and Haghpat

Sanahin Bridge · Built in 1192, the single stone arch still carries people across the Debed. Look at the ends of the parapets: small carved cats sit on them, the bridge's medieval guardians.
Mikoyan Brothers Museum · Two brothers grew up in Sanahin village: Anastas Mikoyan, who stayed at the top of Soviet power from Lenin to Brezhnev, and Artem Mikoyan, the 'Mi' of MiG, who founded the fighter design bureau with Mikhail Gurevich in 1939. A MiG jet stands outside.
Sanahin Monastery · The name is usually read as 'this one is older than that one' — a jab at Haghpat across the gorge. Its library hall, built in 1063, is one of the oldest buildings of its kind in Armenia.
Haghpat Monastery · Queen Khosrovanuysh, wife of King Ashot III, founded Haghpat in 976. Inside the complex stands the Holy Redeemer khachkar of 1273, with Christ and the apostles carved in lace-fine stone.
Haghpat bell tower · The three-storey bell tower stands apart on the slope above the churches. The troubadour Sayat-Nova, whose love songs Armenians still sing, was sent to Haghpat as a monk in the 18th century.
Kayan Fortress · The walls on the spur were put up in the 13th century to guard Haghpat, at a time when Mongol and Seljuk raids reached the canyon. From the top you see the monastery roofs and the gorge below.

The Odzun plateau

Opposite Alaverdi the canyon wall rises to a flat green plateau, and on it sit villages, churches and ruined monasteries older than anything in town. The road climbs from the gorge in tight bends, then runs level along the rim. This loop goes from Odzun down to the hermitages on the cliff edge and ends at Kobayr, back down by the river. A morning with the car; the last stop needs a steep climb on foot.

Odzun Church · One of the largest early-medieval basilicas in Armenia, from the 6th–7th century. Hovhannes Odznetsi, Catholicos of Armenia in the early 8th century, was born in this village.
Odzun funerary monument · Next to the church stand two arches on a stepped base, with stone stelae carved with biblical scenes. There is nothing quite like it elsewhere in Armenia.
Horomayr Monastery · The monastery was built in the 13th century in two parts, an upper and a lower, both hanging on the rim of the Debed canyon. The lower group can be seen from the road far below.
Ardvi Monastery · Tradition links this small monastery to Hovhannes Odznetsi, the Catholicos from the neighbouring village, whose tomb is shown here.
Ditaket viewpoint · From the rim the Debed is a thin line far below. The river flows north from here into Georgia, where it joins the Khrami and then the Kura.
Kobayr Monastery · The 12th-century monastery clings to a ledge above the river, and its walls still carry frescoes and Georgian inscriptions — a sign of the Georgian church that ruled here under the Zakarid princes.

Lori: poets, copper and fortresses

Alaverdi grew up around copper: Greek miners came to work the hills in the 18th century, and a smelter still stands over the town. Further out, the Lori region was a medieval kingdom of its own, and it is also the land of Armenia's best-loved poet. This day goes north to the fortress-monastery at Akhtala, then west to Tumanyan's village and the walls of Lori Berd. A full day by car; Lori Berd is about 40 minutes from town.

Greek Church · Greek miners were brought to the copper mines of the Debed valley in the 18th century, and they built their own churches here. This one, in the upper part of town, is named for them.
Akhtala Monastery · The church inside the fortress was painted in the early 13th century for Ivane Zakarian, a general who had joined the Georgian Orthodox church. Its frescoes, in Byzantine style, cover almost every wall.
Alaverdi Railway Station · The railway follows the Debed through the canyon on its way from Yerevan to Tbilisi, and it is still the only train link between the two capitals.
Tumanyan House-Museum · Hovhannes Tumanyan was born here in 1869. His poem Anush, set among the shepherds of Lori, became Armen Tigranian's opera, and his fairy tales are read to almost every Armenian child.
Lori Berd · King David Anhoghin built the fortress in the 11th century as the capital of the Kyurikid kingdom. It stands on a triangle of land where two gorges, of the Dzoraget and the Urut, meet.
Sanahin Monastery · Sanahin and Haghpat were inscribed together by UNESCO; Haghpat went on the list in 1996 and Sanahin was added in 2000.

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Getting to Alaverdi and getting around

Alaverdi Railway Station · On the Yerevan–Tbilisi line; the night train stops here, and the timetable changes with the season
Sanahin minibus stop · Local minibuses and marshrutkas to Vanadzor and Yerevan; most leave in the morning

Cheap eats in Alaverdi

Lori is cattle country, and its name is on one of Armenia's common cheeses, a firm, salty white cheese eaten with bread and herbs at every meal. In Alaverdi the choice is small: a few cafés in the centre, bakeries and grill houses where the meat goes on skewers over embers. Prices are low — lunch for two rarely passes a few thousand dram.

Lcher · Local dishes in the centre; khorovats plate about 2,500-3,500 dram
Mkrtchyan's · Sandwiches, coffee and ice cream; coffee about 500 dram
Hatsi Tun · A bakery café; pastries about 300-600 dram
Bistro · A quick bite in the centre; shawarma about 1,200-1,800 dram
Hatsi Pur bakery · Fresh bread for the road; a loaf about 200-400 dram

Holy places in Alaverdi

Sanahin Monastery · Right above town; covered shoulders, and quiet inside
Haghpat Monastery · Look for the Holy Redeemer khachkar of 1273
Akhtala Monastery · Frescoes inside a fortress, 20 minutes north
Odzun Church · Early-medieval basilica on the plateau
Kobayr Monastery · A steep climb; frescoes and Georgian inscriptions

Museums in Alaverdi

Mikoyan Brothers Museum · A MiG in the yard and the story of two Soviet careers
Tumanyan House-Museum · The poet’s home in Dsegh, half an hour away
Sanahin Bridge · The 1192 bridge, in town by the main road
Kayan Fortress · 13th-century walls above Haghpat

Nature and day trips near Alaverdi

Ditaket viewpoint · Over the Debed canyon from the Odzun side
Lori Berd · Walk the walls and look down into both gorges
Lori Canyon Trail Rides · Horse rides on the canyon slopes; book ahead
Horomayr Monastery · A rough path along the canyon rim

Where to eat in Alaverdi

Flora · Regional dishes in town; simple and filling
Piritik · A local restaurant near the centre
Vallex Garden · Garden tables by the river side of town
Atorik · On the way to Haghpat; khorovats with a gorge view
Zarni-Parni · Near Haghpat; good after a late visit to the monastery
Coffee House Odzun · Coffee on the plateau, next to the church

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Frequently asked questions about Alaverdi

What is there to see in Alaverdi?

The top sights in Alaverdi are Sanahin Monastery, Haghpat Monastery and Mikoyan Brothers Museum. The full list on this page has 10 sights, each with a photo and a short note.

How many days do you need in Alaverdi?

Three to four days are enough to see the best of Alaverdi without rushing, including at least one walking tour.

Is there a free walking tour in Alaverdi?

Yes. sleepntrip has 3 free audio walks in Alaverdi, with no guide and no group: your phone tells the story at every stop. The first one: Sanahin and Haghpat.

How do you get to Alaverdi and get around?

The main ways are Alaverdi Railway Station and Sanahin minibus stop. Full details are in the transport section on this page.

Where to stay in Alaverdi, and for how much?

sleepntrip shows only rooms in Alaverdi that meet nine conditions: a good location, high guest scores, cleanliness, and a price of up to $80 a night for two. Pick your dates and see what is free.

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